Puerto Rico: a tale of the surfer that inspired me

Mi primera vez en Puerto Rico- y que rico era!

No puedo expresar lo que me siento ahora. Today we went to a beach hidden behind a  vacant lot with an abandoned trailer and an assortment of cars scattered about. You would never be tempted to look if you were driving down the highway. Behind that lot was a rare find: a natural beach. Yes there were some hotels off to the left, but we were hiking though the woods and came out on the beach just the way God designed it. The water was irresistible. The waves seduced me; within minutes I was enraptured.

I was out for about half an hour when a man came over in his kayak, caught a wave in, and then came back out to join me. We were body surfing for a while before either of us spoke. When he finally did, he changed my life.

This man, whose name I wish I could pronounce, had been living on the beach for six and a half years now. He said this was his city, this was his land. The hotels keep trying to buy the property from Puerto Rico, and the people keep fighting it. The best way he could protect his land was to live there and fight them every day. Now there is a colony of people who live in the forest, right in front of the beach, in tents. Every day is a stance against so much more than industrialization, environmentalism and such. He said he must protect what is Puerto Rico. Every day he is committed to loving his country, to protecting it, to seeing that it remains unharmed. (I know PR is part of the USA, but if you know PR, it is not the USA. Onwards.) I can honestly tell you that I have never once in my life felt that compelled about anything to do something so dramatic. I have never felt such passion to spend my life doing one thing. I have never felt called to dedicate my efforts to protecting something so dearly. When he asked me what I did, I suddenly felt so insignificant.

Being here has made me ask myself: When are you going to start living the life you want? I have always said I am going to live by water, and I want mountains to climb, and that above all I want to make a difference with my life. Well, it is about time I figure out what that looks like and get to it. I know that for me, being so diverse and enjoying so many different things has been my greatest obstacle. I could be happy in so many places and I enjoy so many thing. I know it will be hard to pick one place and do one thing, but I have got to start somewhere. To the man who has inspired me-  gracias por sus palabras, ademas, por su ejemplo.  I hope to share what you have given me. Soon.


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )


Connecting to %s